Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
